Listening to the Ancestors

Irma McClaurin
4 min readMay 17, 2023
Africatown Cemetery 2013. It is said that those who arrived on the Clotilda asked to be buried facing East, so they could see home, to which they could not return. (Author’s photos)

Here in Plateau, Alabama,

the group stops at the entrance

of the Africatown Cemetery

and one elder Black woman

shakes her head.

She speaks solemnly:

Something is not right;

the ancestors are not happy.”

She tells us:

The ancestors are speaking;

they say: “We are calling you.

Listen.”

When elder Black women gather,

magic happens.

They/We

become

a spontaneous combustion

of spirits & wisdom.

Knowledge that only can come from living a long life.

When elder Black women gather,

we ignite each other.

We stand together in unity

of a vision — like the “Redemption Voyage” —

We are a collective of souls and spirit.

When elder Black women gather,

we inspire change,

transform ourselves and others,

reconnect to heal

us & our environment.

What has brought these Black

women here;

who or what has called forth

these global walkers

to this space/place called Africatown?

Redemption Voyage.

STOP.

The ancestors are speaking;

they say:

“We are calling you.

Listen.”

They know this Redemption Voyage

will be a journey like no other.

she shakes off help

moves away

from

supporting arms and hands

that reach out to steady her.

What truths can elder Black women spin

amidst the harsh sounds

of big wheel trucks pounding

a concrete bridge & the clanking of speeding cars?

We must heal…

ourselves…

each other…

the earth…

the ocean…

Redemption Voyage will set sail

from Africatown| Mobile | Alabama —

the site of the last known slavery atrocity.

One elder Black woman

twitches from convulsions;

What truths can elder Black women reveal

as they bow in homage to the ancestors,

touch the hallowed ground of the Africatown cemetery,

call forth blessings in long

forgotten (and newly-learned) tongues

of Yoruba, Swahili, Benin (amidst

the adopted words of Christianity):

Asé & Amen?

The ancestors are speaking;

they say: “We are calling you.

Listen.”

One elder Black woman coughs,

chokes, & clears the phlegm, sediment & pollution

of oppression from the memories of an enslaved past

caught in her throat and infecting the body.

She spits out toxins,

amidst the pouring of libations —

purified water to cleanse,

to offer.

The ancestor spirits

are touching us all.

Tears flow,

more cries emerge

from other elder Black women in the group.

The drummer begins.

He calls forth

the ancestral spirits

that inhabit Africatown.

She chants,

speaking

in forgotten languages

that the ancestors once spoke.

Then reminds us

in the language

these ancestors were forced

to adopt — English:

Hear them calling to us?

We are you.

You are Us.

Pause.

Now.

Listen to our ancestors

emanating from the graves.

their whispers woven

into cemetery silences.

Listen to them speak

of the ship that brought them

from Benin to Mobile.

In the quiet of a graveyard,

sounds of the Africatown past

intertwine with the present,

like the moss entangling itself

on the branches & trunks

of Bama oak trees.

Listen.

None of us will profit

if all you seek is for “I.”

Join together.

Collaborate.

Share.

It is the “We” that must be prioritized.

Some elder Black women

fall

to their knees,

others bend

touching

two hands to the ground.

The drumming continues.

“We are calling you.

Listen.”

There is a symbiosis happening.

This Redemption Voyage

will prove the truth

of the Ancestors’ stories.

We are you.

You are Us.

Learn from our journey of pain.

They caution us —

so many, too many fragments;

all with good intentions The Alabama wind gathers up

the dust

of forgetfulness

and scatters it.

In this moment,

Rememory,

long buried,

explodes.

Redemption Voyage

will heal America.

Africatown/April 14, 2023

©2023 Irma McClaurin

Irma McClaurin (https://linktr.ee/dr.irma) is an activist anthropologist, the Culture and Education Editor for Insight News, a columnist, and occasional radio and television commentator and recently appeared in the PBS American Experience documentary “Zora Neale Hurston: Her Own Way.” She is the CEO and senior consultant for Irma McClaurin Solutions, a past president of Shaw University, and former Associate VP at the University of Minnesota and founding ED of UROC. Recognition includes 2023 Honorary Degree from Grinnell College, 2021 American Anthropological Association’s Engaged Anthropology Award, 2015 “Best in the Nation Columnist” by the Black Press of America, and 2002 “Outstanding Academic Title” for Black Feminist Anthropology: Theory, Politics, Praxis and Poetics. McClaurin is a digital author on Medium and for Ms. Magazine. Her collection, JustSpeak: Reflections on Race, Culture & Politics in America, is forthcoming in 2023, and she is working on a book length manuscript entitled “Lifting Zora Neale Hurston from the Shadows of Anthropology.”

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Irma McClaurin

Award-winning author/ anthropologist/consultant & past prez of Shaw U. Forthcoming: JUSTSPEAK: Race, Culture & Politics in America: https://linktr.ee/dr.irma